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Qyie 90cc won't start HELP!!!

  
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Qyie 90cc won't start HELP!!!

 
Grizzly550 Grizzly550
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/25/09
06:09 PM

I just bought this for my 5 year old son 2 days ago and it won't start now. It started a few times when i brought it home but when i went to start it the second day, it wouldn't start. It cranks but won't start. I pulled the spark plug and it was very oily. Heavy gas smell too. I know these are made cheap but i thought i would get a couple of months before any real trouble. Any ideas?  

 
LynnEdwards LynnEdwards
User | Posts: 122 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 10/25/09
06:45 PM

Simple things first:

1) Make sure the left handlebar kill switch is in the center position.  On some (but not all) the switch must not only be in the center position, but you must push it in (towards the handlebar) until it goes "click".

2) Check your safety tether pull cord (if you have one) to make sure it is firmly seated in the switch.

Next Question:

Do you have spark while cranking the engine?  Check out the following video to see how to do this:

http://www.reliableatvs.com/movies/sparkplugs-finding-spark.html

Note:  At post time the above site seems to be down.  Hopefully it will be back up soon.  If not then here is a written version from another source:

http://www.buyatvsonline.com/kazuma-atv-parts-meerkat-50cc-parts-c-228_21.html#no-spark  

 
Grizzly550 Grizzly550
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/26/09
01:04 PM

I check for spark and i am not getting any at all. This atv does not have the tether cord. the kill switch is set for the run position. This one does have the remote kill feature. I have activated the kill and reset it and i here what i believe to be it working. I am assuming now it would not have anything to do with the oil on the plug correct? and it is possibly something electrical (remote kill feature?) Do you think there is another issue though since the plug was oily?  

 
LynnEdwards LynnEdwards
User | Posts: 122 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 10/26/09
10:21 PM

Oil on the plug will not affect whether or not you have spark.  

Without spark the quad will not start. So that is where you need to start.  

I'm not familiar with your particular model, though most chinese quads fall into a few generic types.  Does your CDI look like either of the two pictures following (and if so, which one?):

50Cc Cdi

CDI Pinout

The first step in troubleshooting "no spark" is to check the kill switch circuitry.  Find you CDI and unplug it.  Turn on the ignition switch, and set the kill switch to the run position (middle).  Measure the 'Kill switch" pin on the wiring harness at the CDI connector to ground using an ohmmeter.  It should read open (infinite ohms).  If it reads zero ohms then there's your problem.  Unplug the possible kill switches one by one until the short goes away.  Possible culprits are:  

1) Ignition switch
2) Handlebar Kill switch
3) Tether kill switch (I know, you don't have this but I'm being thorough)
4) Remote Control module

If your kill switch wiring reads open, and you still have no spark while cranking the engine then we have to go further.  But do the kill switch test first since that is where most no spark problems are located.  

 
Grizzly550 Grizzly550
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/27/09
04:58 AM

Ok thanks. i believe this ATV is also called an Eagle. Looks just like all the rest. i believe my cdi looks like the top one (only 5). i will check again tonight and let you know what i find. thanks for all the help. Does the oil indicate another issue though?  

 
LynnEdwards LynnEdwards
User | Posts: 122 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 10/27/09
10:43 PM

I don't know about the oil.  Oil in a quad cylinder usually causes white or blue smoke to pour out the exhaust.  Did you notice that before the quad quit?

Still, oil in the cyclinder has nothing to do with generating spark.  If you have no spark the quad isn't going to run - end of story there.  It is unlikely that you had two simultaneous failures - one producing oil fouling in the cylinder and another killing the spark generation.  I can't think of any scenario that would relate these two, so I'd concentrate on the spark issue first.

The five wire CDI is the most common.  Do make sure it isn't a 4 wire CDI though.  Those need a different troubleshooting approach than a 5 wire.  (I didn't show a picture earlier of a four wire CDI, they look similar to the 5 wire except they only have 4 pins).  

 
Grizzly550 Grizzly550
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 11/01/09
12:09 PM

OK i finally had a chance to check this out. The CDI is a 5 wire like the one pictured.Not sure if i did this right but this is what i did and saw. I put the key in and on the "on" position and set my meter to ohms, unplugged the wire harness from the CDI and put the run lead to the pin for the kill switch and the black to the ground pin. Without hitting the start button, it was reading around 350. Once i hit the start button, it read OL (open loop i guess). From what you said, i would saw the kill switches are ok. What should i check next.  

 
LynnEdwards LynnEdwards
User | Posts: 122 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 11/02/09
08:19 PM

Icon QuoteGrizzly550:
OK i finally had a chance to check this out. The CDI is a 5 wire like the one pictured.Not sure if i did this right but this is what i did and saw. I put the key in and on the "on" position and set my meter to ohms, unplugged the wire harness from the CDI and put the run lead to the pin for the kill switch and the black to the ground pin. Without hitting the start button, it was reading around 350. Once i hit the start button, it read OL (open loop i guess). From what you said, i would saw the kill switches are ok. What should i check next.

When you say "350" am I correct in assuming you meant 350 ohms?  That's not right.  If it was 350 K ohms (350,000 ohms) then that would be a different story.  I would recheck this measurement (watch what resistance scale you are on) and nail the resistance down exactly.

350 ohms will drastically lower the ignition voltage fed to the ignition coil.  It probably wouldn't be low enough to stop a running quad, but may keep a quad from starting up at cranking speeds.  Unplug the ignition switch and unplug the handlebar harness which includes the handlebar kill switch.  Does the resistance go to infinity?  Plug them back in one at a time.  Do either of the two have a major effect more than the other?  

 
Grizzly550 Grizzly550
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 11/02/09
09:16 PM

i must not be doing something right. i am using a fluke 70 to do these measurements. so i should get the reading while cranking or no?  if i unplug the harness from the cdi and touch the ground and the switch connections on the harness with the meter without cranking it goes to 350 something. when i crank it still touching the 2 connections, it reads 0.L?  

 
LynnEdwards LynnEdwards
User | Posts: 122 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 11/03/09
09:26 AM

Measure the resistance with the engine stopped.  But it shouldn't be changing with the engine turning as long as the CDI is unplugged.  You are just measuring all the kill switches and whether they are connected to ground or not.  Whether the engine is turning or not shouldn't matter - they aren't hooked to each other in any way when the CDI is unplugged.

I think you said earlier that you had a remote module.  Try unplugging that and repeating the resistance test both cranking and engine stopped. I'm wondering if the remote isn't sourcing some current onto the kill switch line.