I am a car guy and i have been asked to try to get my nephew's 110cc Fusion (probably chineese) to run.

The ATV has less then 6 hours on it and just quit running.

I have seen lots of discussion on this subject and none seem to work.  I am looking to disconnecting / bypassing the kill switches to try to make this thing run.

I have a black plastic box about 2 1/2 by 3 inches.  It has the letters "SNYA" on a sticker on the box.  It has 11 wires coming out one side.  Two of the wires goes to a small speaker.  A red wire goes to a fused connection.  It has a chassis ground wire and a wire that is probably an antenna.


That said, This is probably a remote kill or start module.


Finally the question:
Can the above unit just be unplugged, or do I need some type of jumper to bypass it?

Can the Killswitch on the back just be unplugged?

This thing has a brake kill switch (will not turn over without the brake pressed).  I have shorted the two wires togather to bypass this switch.  

I can't help on the remote start/kill module.  I don't have one, nor have a seen a wiring diagram of one.

The kill switch connection must be open (disconnected) for the engine to run.  If any of the kill switches (I have three) are shorted to ground the engine stops.

I hope you are not planning on disconnecting the kill switch permanently.  I flipped my quad earlier this summer.  I ended up with my head pointed downhill on a steep slope with my running quad on top of me.  Gas was dripping onto me out the gas cap. I was hurt.  I couldn't reach the ignition switch.  There was nobody around.  I was damn glad to be able to pull that tether kill switch cord.

Same deal on the brake switch interlock.  It is there for a reason, so why bypass it?  Unless you're just testing - that's OK. It is easy to fix, so I hope your plan includes fixing it.

You're a car guy.  It's your nephew.  You know better, right?

Parts on eBay are plentiful and cheap.  

the black box is the remote starter, kill and alarm system.yes it can be unplugged, but the problem is when its unpluged you still need to turn the ignition key on to start it, but here's the problem you unable to use the key to stop the engine, you can only stop the engine from running by using the handlebar kill switch. so i wouldn't recommend removeing it.  i would also reinstall the brake safety switch.  

Yes....This is for a 12 year old.  All safety devices will be re-installed once I get it running.

I just can't get a spark to the spark plug and I was trying to eliminate all of the kill switches.

I guess with all of the kill switches bypassed, and it still don't fire, I will start replacing parts.

Any help troubleshooting the spark problem would be most appriciated.


Thanks  

before replacing parts you need to start by checking all electrical connectors, making sure that each and every one is connected and you don't have a loose wire, start at the ignition switch connector, and make sure the cdi connector wires are tight . also make sure the safety switch at the handle bar brake lever is working. need any more help e-mail me luvmysxs@yahoo.com  

Bill2099's advice is excellent (as always).  Most often the problem is bad electrical connections.  The connectors that they use on these quads are awful.

If checking connections doen't solve the problem then there are some things you can measure before replacing things at random.

Measure the voltage on the kill switch wire while cranking.  You should see a positive high voltage on this line.  It actually is a complicated waveform - it pulses from ground to positive +100 volts so you will see something in between like 40 volts or so.  What you are measuring (albeit indirectly) is the ignition power supply inside the CDI.  If you have voltage at this point it says the stator ignition power winding is working, as is the rectifier inside the CDI, and you know the kill switch wiring isn't shorting this supply to ground (which is how the kill switch stops the engine from running).  Voltage here means you need to look at the timing trigger pulse from the stator, the CDI itself, or the coil/spark plug.  No voltage on the kill switch means checking your kill switch wiring again, or moving back toward the ignition power winding on the stator.

The stator has three windings inside.  All three are just coils of wire.  You should have continuity on both the igniion power connection and the trigger winding to ground.  The third winding is used to charge the battery and run the lights - it has nothing to do with the ignition system.

I have a different engine on my quad so the actual resistances of the stator windings may be a little different than yours.  My ignition power windingis 440 ohms to ground.  The trigger winding is 140 ohms to ground.

You can measure the stator winding voltages too.  The stator ignition power winding puts out roughly 80 volts AC while cranking while disconnected from the CDI.  You *must* have the CDI disconnected when measuring this voltage or your results are meaningless.  The trigger voltage is more difficult to measure.  It consists of very narrow AC pulses at a low duty cycle.  Voltmeters don't work very well in these conditions.  The trigger pulse itself is +/-5 volts high but your meter will only read about 0.3 volts AC.  But you should measure something.  It also doen't matter whether the wire is connected to the CDI or not for this measurement.

The ignition coil primary and secondary windings can be measured for continuity also.  My ignition coil primary is 0.3 ohms, my secondary winding is about 8K ohms.  Your coil may be different, but it shouldn't be open.

If you are brave you can check the ignition coil drive from the CDI with your fingers.  I put one finger on the ignition coil primary, and the thumb of my same hand on ground.  Nothing else on my body touches the chassis while somebody else cranks the engine.  The idea is to keep current localized in my hand and away from my heart.  The voltage on the primary is 250 volts - you will definately feel it if the CDI is working.  

WOW....Great post.

I ended up bypassing all of the kill switches and that didn't help.  I then loosened all of the wiring and unwrapping it it all.  I re-soldered all of the connections, re-wrapped everything with tape and it fired right up.
I then replaced all of the bypass switches one at a time and it fired up every time.

So, What fixed it?  Probably the wiring like you guys said.

Thanks a lot....great thread.
I have another question but I will start another thread for it.

Thanks again