Hello im a noob when it comes to repairs i have a 1993 blaster i just bought for 500.00 bucks it runs awesome but the oil light keeps coming on does this mean i need to change the oil or do i just need to block the oil injection thanks for your help guys in advance jblaze  

the light comes on when the premixer tank is low on oil.

go out and buy some yamalube for it and fill it back up.

it's always a good idea to block off the oil injector pump and mix your 2 cycle and fuel together in the tank.
reason being the yamaha blasters' pre- mixer pump has a plastic gear inside of it that can come apart and clogg up the engine a little.
but if your pump is working well just fill the pre mixer tank up and ride it like it is for a while.

Blasters are alot of fun i have two of them here at the house!!
and they are really inexpensive to repair and there are tons of modifications to make them go faster.  

wolf1:
the light comes on when the premixer tank is low on oil.

go out and buy some yamalube for it and fill it back up.

it's always a good idea to block off the oil injector pump and mix your 2 cycle and fuel together in the tank.
reason being the yamaha blasters' pre- mixer pump has a plastic gear inside of it that can come apart and clogg up the engine a little.
but if your pump is working well just fill the pre mixer tank up and ride it like it is for a while.

Blasters are alot of fun i have two of them here at the house!!
and they are really inexpensive to repair and there are tons of modifications to make them go faster.

this was my post i had to change my name it wouldnt let me log into jblazeohio so i just made new anyway thanks for the info should i just drain the rest of the old oil out and put all new or just top it off also i read where you were talking about taking off the baffle what does this do and where is it located and also sometimes she idles high and i adjusted the screw under the seat is there another screw to adjust?thanks for your help in advance...  

taking the baffle out requires a really good phillips screwdriver.
it's the end of the muffler (stock muffler)
and has three phillips screws holding it in.

remove it, and because the there will be less back pressure you may have to turn the fuel/air mixture screw located on the side of the carburetor.

i would only turn it 1/4-1/2 turn either to the left or the right.

depending on wether it is bogging down or cutting out.

if it is cutting out after you remove the baffle then turn the screw to the left.
if it is bogging down then turn it to the right.


ok if it idles high sometimes then chances are the fuel/air mixture is off a little anyway.
try removing the baffle and you may get lucky and it straighten that out.

if you are using an aftermarket muffler/silencer,
then you probably wont want to remove the baffle.

because it will be flowing well through the muffler.

have you done the timing advance mod yet?

if not and you like to send me a private message with an email address and i'll send you the instructions.

the timing advance costs you nothing to do it but time.  

wow thats all i can say with the instructions you gave it was really pretty easy i got about 350 bucks to spend what should i do next all parts are original if i get the oil block off kit is it pretty easy to put in?  

well you have to split the case i think to get the gear out.

if you have 350 to spend the first thing i would do is have the engine bored .40 over.
boring the cylinder here at my home town costs $45.00

buying a .40 over piston kit costs 87.50 with wiseco. (only ten dollars more than buying the stock piston)

then you'll need a head gasket and cylinder gasket and an exhaust gasket.

for just about $200.00 you can put some serious horsepower in your engine.

with the extra 150 you would want to buy a set Boyeson pro series dual stage reeds.  they make your engine go into the powerband quicker and stay in it longer.

they run you about 55.00 and can be bought at www.RJATV.com.

go ahead and get yourself a 1 up front sprocket, they run about 20.00 and will give you more top end.

boost bottles are controversial, some of them work, but most of them don't

if you have enough try to pick up a mikuni 28mm flat slide carburetor.
but you can get by with the stock carb.

all of the parts can be purchased at www.rjatv.com John is a good friend of mine, and he has really good price and fast shipping!!
and i think John offers a complete top end rebuild kit for the .40 over piston complete with gaskets.  

this sounds good im gonna start right away do you reccomend any other oil besides the yamalube?  

for the 2 cycle oil the only other oil rated for the yamaha blaster pre-mixer pumps is mobile1 mx2t

for the crankcase i wouldn't use anything but yamalube  

where can i buy that at ?  

nevermind i found it at my local autozone added some and its running awesome and i fixed the high idle i got 2 quarts for 4 bucks because it was discontinued at autozone so my lucky day but the blaster seems like its running cooler than before.well cant wait to ride her tomorrow in the trails.thanks  

welcome glad to help.  

when i took it out today and rode when i got back home i noticed that there was oil under the motor maybe just need some new seals or something?  

check the case where the two halves go together under the bottom front.

these are bad about cracking there if it gets hit.

some jb weld it but having it heli-arced works best.
and most times they can do it on the outside without having to split the case apart.
you can get by riding it as long as the leak isn't too bad just keep the crankcase oil checked.  

yea its not too bad at all but ill get it fixed asap thanks again  

welcome glad to help!!