Hello all, I'm new to the forums and have done some searcing but found nothing in reguards to my current isue at hand. I'm 21 and have been around blasters for a few years but never got into making them faster. This faster thing is a new found greed if you will.

I have a few questions I would like to ask to those of you that are familiar with overhauling these things. First things first though, I have installed: A vito 240cc big bore kit, brand new and it only has 1 tank of fuel run thru it both mildly and about half throttle riding. How much and waht type of riding should I do to properly break this in?

I have a FMF powerstroke 2 silencer and I think the FMF pipe before it installed, they were on it when I bought it. As well as the 14 tooth sprocket on the front. Not sure what the back is.

I want more power and more speed. My Vito kit came with the Jet kit and the instructions said to put the biggest Jet in the carb so we did; the stock was a 230 and the bigest one we had was a 340. I have since then removed the 340 and put the 230 back in cause it was flooding. I didn't however move the needle down or up; could that be my problem as to why I'm flooding the engine?

Wolf1 you seem very knowledgable and I hope you and the other members can help me get this figured out, and make it faster. I would like to change the timing as well.  

when you put the 340 jet in did you adjust the fuel/air mixture screw to tune the carb in?

the easiest mod i can tell you about is the 4 degree timing advance mod.
it will give yo more torque.

also what reeds are you running?
if yo are running stock i would suggest purchasing either the boyeson pro series dual stage reeds, or purchasing the rad valve by boyeson.

although the v force reeds are pretty good too.

if you are running the stock carb, i would suggest buying a mikuni v18 flat slide carb.
flat slide carbs will give you a crisper throttle response, and the larger 28mm carb will give you more flow.

there are so many things you can do to a blaster to really open it up and get more extreme horsepower out of it.

if you are serious about it, think about a +3 or +4mm stroker crank.
but you'll have to trench the case so that the rod pin will pass properly.

if you are in the chattanooga tennessee area send me a p.m. and i'd be glad to help you get that blaster screaming.  

I tried to adjust the fuel/air screw all the way in and all the way out. Either way didn't make a difference, the bike just stalls if I try to give it any gas. I think I have a stage 3 jet kit, when I should have a stage 2. It just feels like I need a 260 jet, unless I get a better air box to allow more air. But I even tried taking the airbox lid off and adjusting the screw but it made no difference.
Which way gives more air to fuel when adjusting this screw?

I'm still running the stock Reed, but I have considered a new one, at this point $130 for a better performance reed won't really hurt my pocket after buying the big bore kit. Which BTW, Vito's big bore kit works GREAT.

I'm highly considering your timing mod, I just gotta find the post with the pictures and instructions so I have a better ideea of what I am doing.

Where can I find these Boyeson Reeds? I would assume they have a website, I'll do some searching for them today.

I don't want to go as far as getting a new carb though, I would much rather stick witht he stock carb. I did move the needle on the carb all the way to teh top when I had the 340 jet in and it seemd to allow me to try and give it some more gas to rev the engine, but it had the same effect as before, it just stalls. That's why I thought I needed roughly around a 260 jet. I'll try to purchase one sometime soon I guess.

I thought about the 3+ Vito stroker but I don't really have the money to go as far as purchasing that, all the gaskets again, and getting my case machined to allow it to fit. Maybe someday in the near future if I can manage to afford it.

I live in New York so that won't help much. But I love to learn new things and if you want to help, I want to learn and am willing to listen very well.  

cool, the timing advance mod if you'll send me a private message with an email address i'll send you the insteructions with photo's

the timing advance is so very simple and make a good difference.

turning the air/fuel mixture screw to the left will increase  the amount of fuel in the mix, while turning it to the right will increase the amount of air.

have you disconnected the over rev switch in the carburetors tors unit yet?
these are really bad about going out and making it very difficult if not impossible to tune the carb.

just unplug the wire coming out of it. the connector is really close to the tors unit.
plus it will allow you to dial the blasters stock carb in alot closer.

the boyeson reeds, the best place i have found to buy them is at www.RJATV.com and John is a great guy to buy from.
Down to earth and always friendly.
the part number for the boyeson pro series dual stage reeds is PRO-85

He has a killer price on them and ships out really quickly.

He may not show them yet on his site but he has them.
so you may need to drop him an email or even a phone call, his number is on his site.

but if you are going to just change reeds the Boyeson pro series "dual stage" reeds are the best for that.
they make your blaster go into the power band quicker and stay in it longer.
the stroker crank will open it up, but it is costly when you factor in the machine shop time in trenching the case.

it does sound like a 260 would serve a little better, but i would try unplugging the tors unit switch and retuning first.

have you disabled the oil injection yet?

with the blaster once you start changing the cylinder size it's always best to mix your oil and fuel yourself. 32:1 is the ratio.

the oil injection pump is non adjustable, and the larger cylinder can cause it to run hotter. therefore more oiling could be required.
as well the oil injection pump has a plastic gear that can break and cause issues internally.
you can purchase a block off plate but i have seen some just unplug the wires from the tank sensor and pull the oil light out of the headlight and mix the fuel and oil together.

also to note: use only yamaha crankcase oil if you have the stock clutches it.  I have found using anything else will wash the clutch material out and ruin the clutches.

if yo are wanting to change the clutches John RJATV.com has two different clutch kits he sells that are both better than factory. iam running one of his clutch kits now and they are awesome!!

he has a racing clutch kit and a stock replacement.

both are better than the yamaha stock clutches.

you could also try a reed spacer to get a little more flow. usually the 3/8 reed spacers work the best.

i would tell you to try the boost bottle but those have spotty at best. they work well on some machines and on others they don't quite do much.

The ones i have on my blasters i have played around with until i got them just right. but any change due to a boost bottle is very small, and pretty much unoticeable anywhere but on a dyno machine.

there's just too much to list that can be modified on a blaster.

you are on the right track though.

iam going to eventually put this 34mm mikuni flat slide carb on mine eventually to see what it can do.  

Oh and while you have a little extra cash check the atvrider magazine subscription, it's worth the money!!  

I went ahead and purchased the oil injection block off kit when the motor was apart, and I mix it witht eh 32:1 ratio every time. So i'm glad you brought that up, at least I know that's going well.

I have 10W-40 oil in my crankcase cause someone I know said that would be fine, but I also have the stock clutch right now. I'm kinda hoping for it to go bad but I don't want it to go yet cause I don't have the money.

I have the needle in my carb on the 3rd (middle) setting and the 230 jet in as stated before. I ahve run almost 3 gallons of gas thru the engine that way so far and I hope that is enought to break it in to where I can really hammer on it and rip thru the gears.
To this point most of the riding has been at half throttle and the first half hour I put on the engine was just idling in my yard. I have put the throttle down all the way a couple times, to witness the power and it amazes me. The one thing I noticed though is IF I go to half throttle it sounds as if the engine is revving up normally. But if I go over half way its like a whole nother engine kicked in. Now maybe that's partially due to the big bore kit. But I had a thoght that it may be due to my carb not jetting right.

As for the tors, when you say that I'm assuming that annoying plug that goes to the unit on top of the carb? I had that unplugged once before and the bike wouldn't idle, it just stalled if I stopped giving it more fuel. If that is the piece, do I just cut the wires and tape them together?

I have looked at those boost bottles but I wasn't exactly sure about what they do. It miht help me considering my elevation above sea level but who knows. I think we are around 1400 feet above sea level, but it might be higher.

I wanted to do the crank but the engine is all back together as of right now, and I have plans on buying a YFZ450 from my boss in the spring. My brother wants my blaster so he might buy it from me so I can use the money towards the 450 next year. So I do want to put some money into it and make it faster if I keep it, but I don't want to put to much mroe into it if I don't.

I'll check out those reeds and let you know what I do, I'm also gonna look into a clutch and the jets while I'm there on his site. Right now its running good off the 230 jet and the needle half way, but I'm sure I can grab more horsies from a more appropriate jet and tune. I might have to move that needle further down for more fuel until I get those jets, or if I break down and do it: buy the carb.

Anyway, thanks for your help so far Sir! Its appreciated and I'm off to check out that website.  

sure thing, the boyeson reeds may help clear up the carburetor being too rich.

the pro-85 reeds really alloow more horses into your ride. and they'll really open that 240 big bore kit up.

you just unplug the tors unit but you'll need to adjust the idle screw on top of the tors unit... big ugly thumb screw with a flat screwdriver drive on it.

eventually the switch inside WILL go out, and then you'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the carb retuned with it plugged in.

just unplug it and adjust the idle.

John at RJATV.com will fix you up nice.  he has great prices and really fast shipping.

tell him wolf performance sent you.  

i just bought a 2001 blaster with the big bore kit, fmf power core 2 pipe and it ran incredible till i destroyed the reed valve so, i put one together from some old ones i had in the garage(just to ride of course) and it has just completely fell on it's face in every aspect so, deff. get a good reed valve before u do anything else it makes all the differance but, i have a mikuni carb and i'm not sure what model-it was on it when i bought it maybe i could get a discription of yours to compare and i ordered a uni air filter today from the parts store...what would u suggest as far as an air filter?  

any advice on a carb 4 my blaster and do u think uni air filter is the way to go? thanx  

the uni air filters are pretty good, k&n is good, but i don't really care for having to oil my air filter.

the carb i would suggest is the mikuni 28mm v18 flat slide carb.

kind of square on top with a flat slide also known as a "D" slide carb.
but you'll have to purchase a throttle cable kit for the blaster that fits it.
the stock cable will not work.

the intake boot will work but you'll need a better clamp for it.

you could go with a 30mm but you'll have to rejet it.
iam working on putting a mikuni 34mm flat slide on mine now. am working on making an adaptor for the larger carb.
no doubt i'll have to severely work jetting and tuning to get it right.
but once i do it should really open it up.  

Damn, Rjatv.com went up in the price for their clutches from a few days ago. I sent an email for a price on the clutch, reeds, jets, and somethin else that slips my mind right now. I'm prolly gonna eventually go with a K & N filter since the K & N filter in my car works well. I need to find an air box with the 12 holes drilled in the top and the little filters inserted on it too. Or maybe I can make my own. Do you know where I could find a kit or 12 little filters like those to mod my air box?  

Oh yeah, and that idle control screw on the tors switch. I'm assuming turning it clockwise will turn the idle down? I haven't messed with it yet, so forgive this simple minded question please.  

clockwise increases the idle(makes it faster)
did you tell john at rjatv.com that wolf performance sent you the first time you contacted him?
if so that might explain the price change.  

wolf u talked about setting the timing forward before how do i do that?  

i posted on another thread the instructions for the timing advance mod.

if you want instructions with photo's send me a private message with an email address and i'll send it to you.