Wolf1

I did not really have any time to work on the bike this weekend so here is where Im at. First I want to clarify the wires Im testing. The coil has a connection plug on the top side consisting of 2 wires, one of them is black and the other is orange. I followed the black wire and it connects directly to the negative terminal of the battery. The orange wire was hard to follow but figured since the black was grounded then the orange had to be the hot wire. With everything back together I used a test light to check for power in the orange wire while trying to start the bike. Result = nothing.

I have a few questions for you. In different responses you had mentioned to test for power but also mentioned to test for voltage. I only have a test light and not a voltage meter. Is it sufficient to test these wires for "power" with a test light?

Second, I went back through the thread and in one you stated "if we know it is getting voltage to the coil and the coil is still not putting out a spark then we need to look at the stator". In another response you stated "test the power wire for voltage, if you dont have voltage there then we are looking at the stator or the cdi". So I need to make sure to look towards the stator if there is or is not power at the coil wire (orange one).

This is really the only thing I had a chance to check and even if it takes me 2 weeks (which I hope it doesnt) I will take my time with the questions and follow every step you suggest.

I also located a group of 4 wires, which I believe are for the stator, that comes out of the left side of the engine. This is located near the inside of your left foot when riding. I traced these up towards the front of the bike where they split into 2 pairs with connections. If I remember correctly one of the pairs had a red and white wire and the other had a yellow and white wire. In one of the pair of wires I tested while trying to start the bike (using a test light), on of them had good power and the other was faint. The other pair of wires had no power at all. When I say faint power I mean that the test light was dim.  

06 yfz. Im going from a K & N Intake filter in a stock box, to a box-less ,full size, filter by fuel customs. I am running a white bros. aluminum pro full system exhaust. It was running fairly well with the 168 main and 48 pilot, only a little de-cell popping. with the same jets and the new intake there is some popping at low rev throttle and a significant increase of the de-cell popping. I am using the yz needle on the third ring and 1 1/2 turns out on the screw. Im guessing i need to go up on the main, but to what and what about the pilot.  Any guidance is much appreciated.  

casey
have you tried adjusting the fuel/air mixture a little further?  

06 yfz. Im going from a K & N Intake filter in a stock box, to a box-less ,full size, filter by fuel customs. I am running a white bros. aluminum pro full system exhaust. It was running fairly well with the 168 main and 48 pilot, only a little de-cell popping. with the same jets and the new intake there is some popping at low rev throttle and a significant increase of the de-cell popping. I am using the yz needle on the third ring and 1 1/2 turns out on the screw. Im guessing i need to go up on the main, but to what and what about the pilot.  Any guidance is much appreciated.  

sorry about that double post. Ive gone as far as 2 full out. but didnt seem to make much difference. Im i close with the needles i was using  

ok

Alot to re-read.

if you have power to the coils' power wire then we need to lok at the stator, as well as possibly the coil being bad.

when the magneto turns; it's contact go past the contact on the stator. when this happens the ground is lifted from the coil, causing it to spark.

but the coils' power wire should have constant electricity to it. 12 volts.

I have seen test lights work fine for this, and then i have seen them not light at all.

and a meter would help you determine how much flow of electricity there is if any at all or none at all.

ok back to the task at hand....


you should have one wire coming out of the coil and going to the cdi box.

and another wire coming out of the coil going to the battery.

(should have, i don't have my books here to recall.

and then you should have the spark plug wire.

then you should have a wire coming out of the cdi box and going down to the stator pick-up.

if you are not getting voltage to the coil then it could either be a loose connection or a bad cdi box, or
a bad stator.

if you were getting voltage to the coils' power wire then it would either be a bad coil or a bad stator.


if you had a meter you could test the coil to see if it was good.

for example you'd set the meter to "OHMS"

then plug the red meter test lead into the sparkplug wire, and use the black test lead on each of the other two wires.
your reading should be somewhere in the range of 9200-9900 ohms and should be the same for either wire.

that would help us eliminate the coil, but said that weren't getting voltage to the coil power lead.

most commonly the stator... but could still be the cdi.

without my books it's hard to tell you how to test the cdi or the stator.

i cannot remember the wire colors. let me try some research in the books tomorrow.  

well i put the needle clip on the top setting and tried to get the flames to stop shooting but did no difference then i put the main down to 168 and still the same thing any suggestions on what i should start trying to do should i go to a 68 pilot i was told with the stage 1 cams to run a 68 pilot any help would be appreciated,all im having is problems with this thing its a great quad but the jetting stuff is really starting to get me i just cant figure it out i brought it to a local dealer and they sent it back to me with the flames shooting out sayin it was cool,but im sure  it shouldnt be doing that.  

Wolf1

Someone sent me a link to a free service manual so I will use that and see what I can come up with. I will let you know the outcome in the next few days.

Thanks for all your help.  

im meant a 48 pilot srry  

no it shouldn't be shooting flames out of the exhuast

but if it is just a quick backfire flame lickj then it may be normal.

just be sure to use a spark arrestor when out in the woods.  

Wolf1

Just to give you an update. I used the ignition wiring diagram from the service manual and started from the battery to the main switch, stop switch, and then to the cdi box. I have power going into the cdi but nother coming out on any of the wires when I try to start it. I have also checked all the grounds and connections. So im getting ready to order a used cdi from ebay for $25 versus $200+ from the dealer.

In case you dont already have, I was given this web site which has several service manuals in pdf format. It does not have them all but quite a few. Just scroll down to the bottom center and chose the manufactuer.

Thanks for you help.

http://manuals.dqt.be/index.php?option=com_remository&Itemid=36  

cool yeah the cdi sounds like it is bad.

thanks for the links i don't have my service manuals here at the house.
the links will come in handy.  

Hey wolf 1,

From what i've read on this read you really know what your doing. So i have a question. I own a 2006 yfz 450 i just bought new. The problem is when you stab the throttle off an idle it either sputters or completely dies. I took it back to the dealer and they put new gas in it and a spark plug in it. It continued to have the same problem so i took it back and they told me that its a high revving machine and that it was going to do this.And wouldn't work on it anymore. I dont believe this is correct becasue my buddy has an 04 yfz and it doesn't do this at all. I was wondering what you thought would help. Any thoughts or suggesstions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks  

hey i'm obviously not wolf but have an idea i think your bike is running to rich and when you hit the throtle it floods the motor i had that problem with an atc once  

hey wolf i know your probobly really buisy but could you give me some addvise i could tell you really really know what you are talking about i just got a used banshee it is stock and had been sitting for a while becouse the guy who hadded was in the army and hadded jetted for cea level so he told me to re jett it and it should run like its suppose to when i took apart the carbs i noticed it already had the 200 jets so i started messing with the fuel air mixture srues and noticed that the left was much looser than the other and that they were boath open all the way after i hadded running more or less the way i wanted it to it wouldnt run for long without backfiring and loosing powere and would have to swich the spark plugs every hour or so so i oppened them aggaine and it wouldnt eaven start when i was clossing them the left one didnt close or open it just spins freely and the right gos 3 hole turns and gets hard aither way i turn it

so you think i should take it to the dealer or replace the top part of the carbs becouse if i take it too a dealer they will also tell me what else might be wrong with it  like reeds