Carb problem - 350 bruin no fuel

I could you use your help.  I need to clean the carb on my 2007 yamaha bruin.  Please send the instructions and pictures when you get chance.  Thank you.  

no pictures but it is simple to do.
remove the clamps holding the carburetor to the intake boot, and the one on the airbox boot.
pull the airbox boot off the carb. then carefully work the front of the carb out of the intake boot.
pull the carb out to where you can get to the bowl.
remove the four screws on the bowl and tap the bowl with the plastic handle of your screwdriver until the gasket lets go.
you don't want to just pull the bowl off as it may tear the gasket.
once you have the bowl off look down into it and check for water in with the fuel that is there, and clean it out if necessary.
then take a .10 guitar string and run it into the brass jets. there are 2. or you can use a wire bread tie with the plastic melted off.
you'll have to hold the throttle open to run it through the pilot jet.

make sure it is cleaned out well.

then carefully remove the pin that holds the floats on. be very careful not to lose the needle valve under the floats as it will fall out easily and is very expensive to replace.
note the way the floats came out as putting them in upside down wont help at all.

inspect the floats for holes or cracks. then look into the hole that the needle valve fell out of for debris.
clean it all out then put it back together. (don't forget the needle valve. and the little wires on the back of it go onto the floats)

remove the top of the carb where the cable goes in and inspect the diaphram inside for wear or holes. if no holes put it back in and put it all back together and reinstall the carb.  
Keep it RUBBER SIDE DOWN!!

I was nervous if I did not give myself enough room to work on the carb that I would lose or break something so I wanted to get it on a workbench.  In order to accomplish this I did the following which goes very quickly.  Take off the seat.  Removed plastic that cover the actual tank (four screws total. Two screws near the handle bar and two near where you removed the seat).  I removed the actual gas tank (you need to remove the fuel shut off dial to do this by removing the phillips head screw that is down in the center of the black plastic knob).  Next, remove the rubber mat under the tank by cutting the back 2 zip ties that hold the black plastic mat in place.  IMPORTANT: the zip ties are not there to hold the mat in place.  If you look they fasten the mat and a wire harness along the frame and keep it off the muffler. Make sure you reuse zip ties and include the wire harness in your fastening.  Now you have access to the carb and you can just remove all the hoses etc and the choke cable. I did not want to mess with the throttle cable that is attached to the side of the carb so I just disconnected at the thumb throttle on the handle bar by removing the plate that covers the thumb throttle and disconnecting cable.  I then picked up where wolf left off.  Once I got the carb out of the intake boot and air intake I could pull the whole carb out and place it on the workbench with the throttle cable in tow.  I did all the detail that Wolf goes into with a carb cleaner and a stripped bread tie to clean all the passages that I could find.  I also make sure the throttle was open when cleaning the pilot jet per wolf's suggestion.  If you need additional detail let me know.  

The H2O Gas Conversion System is a great way to increase gas mileage and improve your cars performance and horsepower. It may be time to take control over your gas efficiency and put money back in your pocket rather than giving it all to the big gas companies.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.lincenergy.us  

Wolf, you seem to be the man to ask, so here goes:

I have an 04 Yamaha Bruin 350 4x4.  The bike ran great until i put it in my enclosed trailer for about four months without starting it.  When I pulled it out, it would start and run for about three seconds, then die.  It did that about 5 or 6 times, then it just wouldn't start again.  I opened the drain screw and nothing would come out even when I had the fuel on and turned it over.  I took the carb out enough to get at the floats and it looked like the pin was sticking so I cleaned it off.  Put it back in and then the gas wouldn't stop coming out the drain tube.  I took out the drain screw and cleaned it off, but same same.  Then I pinched off the drain tube and tried, and the fuel started coming out the overflow tube.  I know the float sounds like it's stuck open now, but why would the fuel come out of the drain tube also?  A guy told me it sounds like it had/got water in it and when it sat out there in the cold, it might have frozen and cracked the carb or something.  Do I need an entirely new carb?  Is there anything I can do to avoid having to buy a new carburetor?  They're over $200 new and I'm not looking to spend that kind of money right now if I can avoid it. Thanks in advance for your help.  

most likely you need to clean the carb out again.  sometimes when we clean it the first time we didn't get all the fuel gum and trash out.

there is a post under atv repair and maintenance titled carburetor cleaning 101
it will walk you through a good thorough cleaning.

i wouldn't spend money on a carburetor just yet.

normally they don't freeze and crack as the overflow lets excess fuel/water out.
and the amount of water that can get in there through condensation is very small, and usally not enough to expand enough to cause damage.

give it a good cleaning let me know if you need anymore help.  
Keep it RUBBER SIDE DOWN!!

I'll clean it again as I'd rather clean it ten times and save the money than spend it.  Thanks for the extremely fast response.  I'll let you know how it goes when i can get to it.  The wife has a honeydo list about 10 miles long.  

honey do list???  you ride an atv!!!
it's a requirement to ride at least 10 hours per week or the carbs gum up!!!

lol j/k but then you could actually argue the case in your situation... ya never know........

or i specifically like the one where you tell them that you have to "break it in"
before the warranty runs out so that the valves are adjusted under warranty  <wink, wink>  that way you can argue the waste of the atv cost by not putting common sense to it.

usually gets you out of the house and on the trails

used to work for me, but then eventually they realize that it's very well broken in after a while....

seriously check the carburetor cleaning 101 post.

that way you can be sure the jets are cleaned out too.  
Keep it RUBBER SIDE DOWN!!

wolf1:
no pictures but it is simple to do.
remove the clamps holding the carburetor to the intake boot, and the one on the airbox boot.
pull the airbox boot off the carb. then carefully work the front of the carb out of the intake boot.
pull the carb out to where you can get to the bowl.
remove the four screws on the bowl and tap the bowl with the plastic handle of your screwdriver until the gasket lets go.
you don't want to just pull the bowl off as it may tear the gasket.
once you have the bowl off look down into it and check for water in with the fuel that is there, and clean it out if necessary.
then take a .10 guitar string and run it into the brass jets. there are 2. or you can use a wire bread tie with the plastic melted off.
you'll have to hold the throttle open to run it through the pilot jet.

make sure it is cleaned out well.

then carefully remove the pin that holds the floats on. be very careful not to lose the needle valve under the floats as it will fall out easily and is very expensive to replace.
note the way the floats came out as putting them in upside down wont help at all.

inspect the floats for holes or cracks. then look into the hole that the needle valve fell out of for debris.
clean it all out then put it back together. (don't forget the needle valve. and the little wires on the back of it go onto the floats)

remove the top of the carb where the cable goes in and inspect the diaphram inside for wear or holes. if no holes put it back in and put it all back together and reinstall the carb.

Hey,
So, I have the 2004 Bruin, and it was sitting for 8 months or so, and same problem....no fuel, no ***

I took apart the carb., but I see three brass rods where I can fit the twist tie wire. Do I clean all three? Also, about the small wire that holds the floats, does it look like the back side of a staple? And can you describe more what I will find when I take off those floats?

Prior to all this I primed the cylinder, and the bike went for 2 seconds. Did that a dozen times. Then took out the air box (if thats what its called) under the seat, and primed the bike from there, and the same thing, went for 3-5 seconds. It appears none of my hoses are clogged, but I did notice that where the gas flows into the carb from the tank, i was not able to blow through it...could that be clogged? How would I clean that area from debris?

I haven't cleaned a crab on a four stroke before, only on the 2 strokes.

any suggestions??

thanks...

SB  

hi, it seems like you no what your talking about when it comes to these carbs. I have a 2004 bruin 350, and i had taken it in to the shop and had some carb work done with the jets about 5 months ago, i didnt drive the fourwheeler to much but when i did it ran great, but i recently took it through some mud bogs and it seems like the fourwheeler is not getting any gas know, it turns over but wont start up,
i was wondering if you would be able to help,
thanks  

Put a teaspoonfull of gas into cylinder. If it tries to start up clean carb.. Inspect fuel line, fuel shutoff valve filter, and fuel tank for debris. If it doesn't try to start up check for spark.