bombardier traxter starting problems

I replace the sprague clutch, flange, gasket and the front and rear output seals as long as I had the motor out.  Replace all the parts as it is not something you want to do again.  

where did you get the steps to fix the sprague clutch?  

After using this traxter for plowing snow this winter I'm definatly sold on it with or without it's weaknesses. I have been "pull" starting it with not much problem but do plan to fix the electric starter. The recoil starter has its weaknesses too. The handle broke on me first off, and I found the price on a new one was 43 dollars. I found that a handle for a seadoo works just as well. Then the housing cracked (plastic) i ordered one on line but repaired the one I had with epoxy, and reinforced it with a bolt threaded through the center. Looking at the service manual I see the "sprage", "one-way" what ever you wish to call it clutch. It is listed as the "roller cage" in the manual. The cost listed is 19.95. There is also a double gear and a larger gear associated with the starting function. The larger gear rides on the roller cage. The larger one is close to $300 the smaller double gear close to $100. Those of you who spent big bux I'd assume had one or both of those gears replaced. In a few weeks I'll attempt to pull then engine and get into it. I have more time than money.  For those looking for manuals, I found mine on ebay in a CD version. Good luck to all. I'll post results when I open 'er up  

I picked a hitch up from www.atvhitchreceivers.com for my Can-Am.  It converts my 1 1/4 standard hitch receiver to a 2 inch hitch receiver so I can use the reese hitches off my pickups on my atvs.  Heavy Duty - like it alot.  Get many comments on it when I'm riding with my friends.  Highly recommended.  They have 2 inch hitch receivers for all major brands of atv's, as well as foot peg risers.  Check em out.  www.atvhitchreceivers.com  

I am having the exact same problem,did you bever figure it out?If you take the recoil appart and clean it,especially the center shaft with a bit of sandpaper you can get it t work. Thats what I did and can now start it with the pull cord.This still doesn`t help the starter ,if you ever get it figured out let me know...  

Sorry for the delay in reporting all, I have indeed resolved the issue and as several people before me have found it was indeed the one-way "sprag" clutch on the flywheel. The engine has to be removed to do this repair so if you don't have a way to do that you will pay the high cost of labor the "stealers" charge.The parts came to just about $200 with the chutch itself being $153.xx at CheapCycleParts.com I found them to be the least expensive.I bought a few thrust washers just to replace old ones while I had it apart to make sure there wasn't any slack in the starting system. All in all the repair was easier than getting the engine out and in because you have the drive shafts to deal with. I have a motorcycle jack and a friend with a hoist that did the trick, however the engine has to be "tilted" when removed to clear the frame. That is explained in the shop manual. If you don't have a manual don't even attempt this repair. the engine and transmission DO-NOT have to be separated as one entry stated. the rear ignition/stator cover and water pump housing does have to come off as a unit. If you're careful you won't break the gasket, and can reuse it re-enforced with some permatex silicone. One other tool you'll need is a good gear puller and maybe torches to "pop" the magnetic rotor because it has been lock tited on. Make sure if you do this that you re-apply lock tite. The kind that requires heat to remove or else the rotor will for sure come off and rip the stator and who knows what else apart. Apply the heat as close to the center of the hub as you can while applying pressure with the gear puller, and it will come off with a resounding "pop". All in all as you can imagine this is not a repair for the novice. The machine is taken down to the skeleton to get the engine/transmission out. It took me a day to get it out and open it up, and then order parts, then a day to put it back together. Hope all this helps you make a decision gang but this is a rugged machine and for me it was well worth the effort to keep it going!  

Oh and by the way in my earlier post regarding the clutch, I'd mistakenly named it as a roller cage. That was indeed an error and it is just that a roller bearing that the larger gear rides on. I did replace that too at $19.95 but as stated in the last post the clutch is $153+change.  

I've been reading your posts with interest as I have had the same starting problem with my 2001 Traxter XL. I do have a major issue though; my ATV is on my cottage property which I get to normally by water; however I was able to drive it in.  I'd like to do the repair on site as opposed to trying to barge the ATV back.  What tools would I need to have on site to complete the repair as you have described. I'd like to take the recoil off first to see if I can start it that way-it's locked and the rope won't recoil back in ( that's how I'be been starting it since I've run into the starting problem). Haven't really checked that procedure out but I'm fairly handy and would ask a mechanic friend to help. I don't have a service manual yet but have been looking online and think I'll get one off of "Midwest Manuals"-anyone have any experience with them?  Also; what's "mpem" stand for?  Thanks for any help, ideas anyone can give me.  

I've been reading your posts with interest as I have had the same starting problem with my 2001 Traxter XL. I do have a major issue though; my ATV is on my cottage property which I get to normally by water; however I was able to drive it in.  I'd like to do the repair on site as opposed to trying to barge the ATV back.  What tools would I need to have on site to complete the repair as you have described. I'd like to take the recoil off first to see if I can start it that way-it's locked and the rope won't recoil back in ( that's how I'be been starting it since I've run into the starting problem). Haven't really checked that procedure out but I'm fairly handy and would ask a mechanic friend to help. I don't have a service manual yet but have been looking online and think I'll get one off of "Midwest Manuals"-anyone have any experience with them?  Also; what's "mpem" stand for?  Thanks for any help, ideas anyone can give me.  

Get the service manual from Midwest, It's a very good manual, thats the one i use on cd. The mpem is the Multi-Purpose Electronics Module. it is litteraly the Brains of this unit. It controls EVERYTHING. Now the recoil comes off the front of the engine with 5 8mm bolts. you can get it off without taking the fuel tank off but you will most likelyhave to remove the crossbar across the unit above it. once you get it off be very careful with this sucker it has a tightly wound spring that could hurt you if it is released accidently. the manual has a good blow up of the unit, and parts are available. To fix the electric starter if youi see my post under "flagtrax" (account is screwed up and I could not log on) you will see you need jacks, jackstands, a way to lift the engine out and pivot it at the same time, (there is a factory tool that looks like a long pipe with a plate welded to it that bolts to the exhaust studs). Once you get the engine out getting to the sprag clutch requires taking the cover off the back, and then the biggie... getting the rotor off. You need to either lock the crankshaft (proceedure in the manual) or a good air impact wrench will work. remember, it's LEFT hand thread. once you get the nut loose you nee a good gear puller and probably a tourch to apply heat to the area near the hub at the crankshaft. With pressure applied with the gear puller the rotor will "pop" free. Replacing the sprag clutch is easy at this point and from here everything is done in reverse. hope that helps.  

Where is the best place to get a mpem for a Traxter 1999. I changed the plugs, gets a spark to the plugs, but will not try to start. email is vfhines@electratx.com  

IM NOT SURE WHAT A SPRAG CLUTCH IS BUT MY 2000 TRAXTER WITH THE ROTAX ENGINE HAS A DIRECTIONAL GEAR IN SIDE THE LOWER ENGINE THAT RUNS IN ENGINE OILS AS THE STARTER DOES ALSO THE ENGINE HAS TO BE PULLED AND TORN DOWN TO REPLACE. PART COST ABOUT $100.OO ACTS LIKE STARTER IS FAULTY BUT I REPLACED STARTER NO DIFFERENCE CALLED DEALER HE SAID THIS GEAR WAS BAD.. THEY HAD MY TRAXTER FOR 120 DAYS WAS TOLD BILL WOULD BE $450.00 ENDED UP AT 3250.00 FORTUNATELY SERVICE MAN THAT GAVE ME QUOTE REMEMBERED AND WE SETTLED UP FOR $650.00 HOPE THIS HELPS. GET THAT QUOTE FIRST  

The mpem is an expensive unit no matter which way you go. I'd be darn sure that is the culprit before spending the money. (around 1100 new) I'd check all the fuses, wiring, and be sure there is no spark before getting into that expense. If you feel that it is indeed the mpem you might want to check ebay I've seen used ones there much more reasonable, and most sellers will accept returns within 14 days.  

The mpem is an expensive unit no matter which way you go. I'd be darn sure that is the culprit before spending the money. (around 1100 new) I'd check all the fuses, wiring, and be sure there is no spark before getting into that expense. If you feel that it is indeed the mpem you might want to check ebay I've seen used ones there much more reasonable, and most sellers will accept returns within 14 days. Check with cheapcycleparts.com if you're looking for new.  

Just finished, same problem.  2000 Traxster 500CC. Bad Sparg bearing inside case behind water pump cover.  Bearing is ~$200.  Engine had to be removed.  It ain't easy!.  Took me a week.  My mechanic said "maybe" the cover could come off in chassis.  If you do this job, take all plastics off!.  Look if you can remove rear Axel & Swing Arm to see back of engine & clear cover.  Other wise to remove engine, you have to ungolt the front differential to remove front drive shaft.  Then remove motor mounts.  Engine has to rotate 30 degrees to clear chassis. $1500 at dealer, so I did this myself. Had engine hoist.  Search Bombardier Sparg Bearing, read threads.  Eagle007